I want to tile my bathroom (walls and floors) what is the purpose of the cement backerboard. (I think its sometimes called hardybacker) What service does it function? And is it 100% nessesary?
It is more water and mold resistent that normal sheetrock. Since tile is generally installed in wet areas, it is advisable to use the cement backerboard, although not 100% necessary. If any water gets behind the tile, mold and rot will cause damage in normal sheetrock.
March 14th, 2010 at 11:43 am
It is more water and mold resistent that normal sheetrock. Since tile is generally installed in wet areas, it is advisable to use the cement backerboard, although not 100% necessary. If any water gets behind the tile, mold and rot will cause damage in normal sheetrock.
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March 14th, 2010 at 11:59 am
It is more moisture resistant than dry wall.
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March 14th, 2010 at 12:15 pm
IT is not necessary, but if any moisture gets behind the tiles, it is a life saver!!! All drywall will break down, even moisture resistant.
Good luck,
Lonnie
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March 14th, 2010 at 12:51 pm
If you use regular plasterboard that has a paper covering. When any water hits it the covering and the plasterboard start to fall apart, crumbling and taking the tiles down with it.
Backerboard is waterproof and essential to keep the bathroom walls OK for the wet location.
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March 14th, 2010 at 12:56 pm
Cement Backerboard
WALL & FLOOR
Cement backerboard is a strong, highly water resistant base for ceramic, porcelain & natural stone tile. Even in standing water, cement backerboard will not swell, decompose, decay, delaminate or deteriorate. It will not expand or contract due to changes in temperature or humidity like other underlayment materials. Because of its unique formulation of concrete and fiberglass, cement backerboard may be used as a sub-surface for tile on walls, floors, tub decks and countertops.
FLOOR INSTALLATION
Cement Backerboard can be applied over 3/4” plywood when floor joists are 16” on center. When planning the floor, install the sheets of backerboard with joints staggered from existing sub-floor joints so that the new seams are not laid over the plywood seams. Prior to fastening the backerboard to the plywood, mix PROFLEX Mortar with water to a “mayonnaise consistency” (follow mixing directions on packaging). Trowel-out the PRO-FLEX Mortar to the plywood sub-floor with a Unotch trowel and lay the backerboard into the mortar. (By adhering the cement backerboard to the plywood with PRO-FLEX, you are fusing the two layers together to create a superior bond.)
Fit the cement backerboard closely together. Fasten the backerboard to the plywood sub-floor using 1 1/2” galvanized roofing nails or sheetrock screws spaced 8" on center; avoid floor joist. Nail heads should be flush with the surface. All seams of the cement backerboard must be taped using FIBRA TAPE (fiberglass net tape) and PRO-FLEX Mortar applied with a smooth putty knife. Any cutting of the backerboard can be made easily with a SCORE TOOL. After the cement backerboard is secured firmly into place (nail or screw), and all seams skim-coated with PROFLEX Mortar, allow to dry 24 hours prior to tiling.
WALL INSTALLATION
Cement Backerboard may be installed over metal or wood studs spaced 16” on center. Exterior walls should be insulated properly prior to installation. For tub surrounds and stand-up showers, leave backerboard 1/4” off the lip of the tub or shower base (DO NOT install backerboard on stand-up shower walls until after the vinyl liner / “bladder” is in place) and fill with 100% Silicone Caulk or PRO-MASTIC in this 1/4” gap. Using galvanized sheetrock screws, secure the backerboard into place. Screw the backerboard to the studs every five inches. Allow an 1/8” gap between all backerboard sheets, sheetrock, and plaster. Using FIBRA TAPE, a smooth putty knife, and PRO-FLEX/PROMASTIC, patch all these 1/8” gaps.
To install cement backerboard on countertops or whirlpool tub decks, follow the same instructions as above: Floor Installation. For more detailed cement backerboard installation instructions, confer with one of our experts at the Tile Shop.
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March 14th, 2010 at 1:26 pm
Not only will it do some moldy/mildew voo doo to your dry wall…but it can also get into the studs/frame of your house.
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Speaking from my husbands experience and having a cut out in a bedroom wall while we dried out the studs!
March 14th, 2010 at 1:55 pm
It just provides a better backer for adhereing. We’ve used plywood for years and never had a problem with it. And we still use it to save money.
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March 14th, 2010 at 2:23 pm
Sheetrock will draw moisture and crumble, cement board doesn’t
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March 14th, 2010 at 2:31 pm
At the very least you need to use the backboard. There are other leveling and sealing surficants that you can use as well, but the very base is the backer. The purpose is to reduce motion, shifting, caused by the typical movement of a house, thereby reducing the incidence of cracked tiles. A wood subfloor will give as you walk over it. The concrete backer will not.
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March 14th, 2010 at 2:49 pm
The grout used for the ceramic tile (applied to the best of anyones ability eventually will crack or open up a little. Moisture can migrate to the space behind the tile (there is always a possibility). The cement board is waterproof and the adhesive to attache the tile is water resistant as well. In other words, the cement backer board will allow your tile to last longer allowing for repairs that can be done from the surface. It is also more stable than sheetrock or wood as a substrate. It is worth using.
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